- There are now 2 branches: The __development__ branch is where new features and code changes will be sorted out. This branch may have untested code in it, so please let us know if you find any bugs. When the __development__ branch has reached a state where it is stable, it will be moved to the __stable__ branch.
- We are doing a kind of cleanup in the list of Issues and Pull Requests, the aim is to get to a state where we can certify the code as stable. To get the code tested as widely as possible we require several volunteers with a wide variety of hardware configurations willing to test the firmware and help us to certify it as stable. If you want to help out testing go to this issue and let us know: https://github.com/ErikZalm/Marlin/issues/1209
- Before you submit any pull request, we ask that you _PLEASE_ test your code before submission, even if the change seems innocuous. When creating the pull request, please include the hardware you used for testing and a short synopsis of your testing procedure. Untested pull requests are less likely to be merged, as even slight changes create the risk of breaking the main branch.
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This RepRap firmware is a mashup between <ahref="https://github.com/kliment/Sprinter">Sprinter</a>, <ahref="https://github.com/simen/grbl/tree">grbl</a> and many original parts.
The default baudrate is 250000. This baudrate has less jitter and hence errors than the usual 115200 baud, but is less supported by drivers and host-environments.
Differences and additions to the already good Sprinter firmware:
If you place a file auto[0-9].g into the root of the sd card, it will be automatically executed if you boot the printer. The same file will be executed by selecting "Autostart" from the menu.
First *0 will be performed, than *1 and so on. That way, you can heat up or even print automatically without user interaction.
If an endstop is hit while moving towards the endstop, the location at which the firmware thinks that the endstop was triggered is outputed on the serial port.
This is useful, because the user gets a warning message.
However, also tools like QTMarlin can use this for finding acceptable combinations of velocity+acceleration.
* M42 - Change pin status via gcode Use M42 Px Sy to set pin x to value y, when omitting Px the onboard led will be used.
* M80 - Turn on Power Supply
* M81 - Turn off Power Supply
* M82 - Set E codes absolute (default)
* M83 - Set E codes relative while in Absolute Coordinates (G90) mode
* M84 - Disable steppers until next move, or use S<seconds> to specify an inactivity timeout, after which the steppers will be disabled. S0 to disable the timeout.
* M85 - Set inactivity shutdown timer with parameter S<seconds>. To disable set zero (default)
* M92 - Set axis_steps_per_unit - same syntax as G92
* M201 - Set max acceleration in units/s^2 for print moves (M201 X1000 Y1000)
* M202 - Set max acceleration in units/s^2 for travel moves (M202 X1000 Y1000) Unused in Marlin!!
* M203 - Set maximum feedrate that your machine can sustain (M203 X200 Y200 Z300 E10000) in mm/sec
* M204 - Set default acceleration: S normal moves T filament only moves (M204 S3000 T7000) im mm/sec^2 also sets minimum segment time in ms (B20000) to prevent buffer underruns and M20 minimum feedrate
* M205 - advanced settings: minimum travel speed S=while printing T=travel only, B=minimum segment time X= maximum xy jerk, Z=maximum Z jerk, E=maximum E jerk
* M209 - S<1=true/0=false> enable automatic retract detect if the slicer did not support G10/11: every normal extrude-only move will be classified as retract depending on the direction.
* M218 - set hotend offset (in mm): T<extruder_number> X<offset_on_X> Y<offset_on_Y>
* M220 S<factorinpercent>- set speed factor override percentage
* M221 S<factorinpercent>- set extrude factor override percentage
There are two options for this feature. You may choose to use a servo mounted on the X carriage or you may use a sled that mounts on the X axis and can be docked when not in use.
See the section for each option below for specifics about installation and configuration. Also included are instructions that apply to both options.
Note for RAMPS users:
---------------------
By default, RAMPS have no power on servo bus (if you happen to have a multimeter, check the voltage on servo power pins).
In order to get the servo working, you need to supply 5V to 5V pin.. You can do it using your power supply (if it has a 5V output) or jumping the "Vcc" from Arduino to the 5V RAMPS rail.
These 2 pins are located just between the Reset Button and the yellow fuses... There are marks in the board showing 5V and VCC.. just connect them..
If jumping the arduino Vcc do RAMPS 5V rail, take care to not use a power hungry servo, otherwise you will cause a blackout in the arduino board ;-)
The third one tells the angle in 2 situations: Probing (165º) and resting (60º). Check this with command M280 P0 S{angle} (example: M280 P0 S60 moves the servo to 60º)
Next you need to define the Z endstop (probe) offset from hotend.
My preferred method:
* a) Make a small mark in the bed with a marker/felt-tip pen.
* b) Place the hotend tip as *exactly* as possible on the mark, touching the bed. Raise the hotend 0.1mm (a regular paper thickness) and zero all axis (G92 X0 Y0 Z0);
* d) Raise the hotend 10mm (or more) for probe clearance, lower the Z probe (Z-Endstop) with M401 and place it just on that mark by moving X, Y and Z;
* e) Lower the Z in 0.1mm steps, with the probe always touching the mark (it may be necessary to adjust X and Y as well) until you hear the "click" meaning the mechanical endstop was trigged. You can confirm with M119;
* f) Now you have the probe in the same place as your hotend tip was before. Perform a M114 and write down the values, for example: X:24.3 Y:-31.4 Z:5.1;
* g) You can raise the z probe with M402 command;
* h) Fill the defines bellow multiplying the values by "-1" (just change the signal)
The sled option uses an electromagnet to attach and detach to/from the X carriage. See http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:396692 for more details on how to print and install this feature. It uses the same connections as the servo option.
Uncomment the SLED_DOCKING_OFFSET to set the extra distance the X axis must travel to dock the sled. This value can be found by moving the X axis to its maximum position then measure the distance to the right X end and subtract the width of the sled (23mm if you printed the sled from Thingiverse).
* b) Move the X axis to about the center of the print bed. Make a mark on the print bed.
* c) Move the Y axis to the maximum position. Make another mark.
* d) Home the X axis and use a straight edge to make a line between the two points.
* e) Repeat (b)-(d) reversing the X and Y. When you are done you will have two lines on the print bed. We will use these to measure the offset for the Z probe endstop.
* f) Move the nozzle so that it is positioned on the center point of the two lines. You can use fine movement of 0.1mm to get it as close as possible. Note the position of X and Y.
* g) Zero the Z axis with the G92 Z0 command.
* h) Raise the Z axis about 20mmm.
* i) Use the G32 command to retrieve the sled.
* j) Now more the X and Y axis to the position recorded in (f).
* k) Lower the Z axis in 0.1mm steps until you hear the "click" meaning the mechanical endstop was trigged. You can confirm with the M119 command. Note the position of the Z axis.
* l) Make a mark on the print bed where the endstop lever has touched the print bed. Raise the Z-axis about 30mm to give yourself some room.
* m) Now measure the distance from the center point to the endstop impact site along the X and Y axis using the lines drawn previously.
* n) Fill in the values below. If the endstop mark is in front of the line running left-to-right, use positive values. If it is behind, use negative values. For the Z axis use the value from (k) and subtract 0.1mm.
For example, suppose you measured the endstop position and it was 20mm to the right of the line running front-to-back, 10mm toward the front of the line running left-to-right, and the value from (k) was 2.85. The values for the defines would be:
Supports the use of a real time filament diameter sensor that measures the diameter of the filament going into the extruder and then adjusts the extrusion rate to compensate for filament that does not match what is defined in the g-code. The diameter can also be displayed on the LCD screen. This potentially eliminates the need to measure filament diameter when changing spools of filament. Gcode becomes independent of the filament diameter. Can also compensate for changing diameter.
For examples of these sensors, see: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:454584, https://www.youmagine.com/designs/filament-diameter-sensor, http://diy3dprinting.blogspot.com/2014/01/diy-filament-diameter-sensor.html. Any sensor which produces a voltage equivalent to the diameter in mm (i.e. 1v = 1mm) can be used. This provides a very simple interface and may encourage more innovation in this area.